A beginners guide: Dermarolling

So, I did it. I finally sucked it up, purchased a derma roller and actually used it. Yes, I applied over 500 small needles on my face and I didn't even cry! Which is a big deal since I am usually terrified of needles.

If you've been following my Skin Diaries you would be aware that I am now left with numerous scars, mostly on my cheeks from acne, and no topical treatment was cutting it. I have done multiple peels and microdermabrasion in the past however those treatments had either a) too much downtime or b) were too expensive for a university student like me to keep up with. After a lot, and I mean A LOT of research, binge watching youtube videos and asking others who have tried it I decided to go with purchasing my very own torture device, the derma roller.

Ok, so it isn't actually that bad. The needles are so tiny and compact that you practically don't experience the sensation you are thinking. It is more ticklish rather than a painful, bloody, traumatic experience.

Purpose

If you suffer from acne scars, hair loss, fine lines, wrinkles, sun spots, hyper-pigmentation, large pores, cellulite or stretch marks then you too should be considering dermarolling. 

Dermarolling creates hundreds of tiny holes in your skin which tricks your body in thinking it has a wound to heal. This results in new tissue and collagen forming which ultimately helps fade scarring a lot quicker than normal. It is 100% safe as the needles are so small that you aren't creating any major damage. I will get into the different sizes in the next section.

Needle Sizes

The size I purchased was 0.5mm mainly because I was scared and also because my scarring isn't very deep, more so red. 

The needle sizes range from 0.2mm - 2.0mm and have multiple objectives. Please be aware that the larger the needle length the more painful it can be. Numbing cream may be required for the larger sizes and 2.5mm is not recommended or safe to use in your own home!

Depending on what results you are after I will include a table explaining what each length can be used for:

Based off my research any derma rollers larger than 1.0mm should never be used on your face (unless you're getting it done professionally). Sizes 0.2mm - 0.5mm only target the top layer of your skin (Epidermis), so mainly pores, pigmentation, wrinkles and shallower scars. As a general rule 0.75mm and 1.0mm are the most ideal as they are best for all skin conditions. The last group, 1.5mm and above, are better suited for treated skin issues on your body rather than your face. Also numbing cream is recommended whereas with the smaller needle lengths it is optional.

Routine

After countless nights of researching how often I should dermaroll, what products to use, how much downtime does it require, I came to the decision that I will do it every two to three weeks. This way I am able to let my skin heal between treatments and slowly build up to either a longer needle or frequent treatments.

Before dermarolling it is important you don't have active acne or other skin issues such as cold sores/cuts as you don't want to spread bacteria and cause infection. After all you are creating small punctures into your skin and those same needles will be going across the entire area you are treating. However, if you do have any pimples at the time of treatment you will avoid that area completely to prevent possible breakouts or infection.

Ok now actually how to use the device. You want to make sure your skin is clean before starting your treatment and you also want to make sure the dermaroller is sterilised with rubbing alcohol and has run under hot water for a few seconds. I chose to avoid exfoliating prior to use and stuck to a gentle cleanser instead, just so I wouldn't irritate my skin. The next part I wasn't entirely sure about as some sites suggested to apply a serum then dermaroll whereas others say to apply the serum once the treatment was complete. For my first time I went in with the derma roller immediately after cleansing my face.

Now for the fun part! When you are ready to roll across your face work in sections. I started on my cheek and while stretching my skin with one (clean) hand I rolled horizontally, vertically and diagonally roughly 8-10 times each. Picking it up after each stoke as dragging the roller across your skin can actually damage it. I then moved onto my other cheek, forehead, chin etc and repeated the process.

After all the rolling is done and dusted I applied my serum. The one I used is the Stem Organics Hydrating Face Fluid. Another point I wanted to quickly add is in some reviews I read said to apply vitamin C serum after treatment and others said doing so would burn your skin. Please do your own research with this but I decided to keep it safe and use vitamin C serum between treatments instead.

That is pretty much it when it comes to my dermarolling routine, I kept it short and sweet. I did my treatment at night, roughly an hour before bed and avoided makeup and direct sunlight for 48 hours.

After every treatment make sure to properly sterilise your dermaroller by soaking it in rubbing alcohol for 20 minutes. Always leave it in its plastic casing when not in use and never share your dermaroller with anyone else as it is a needle. It is recommended to replace your dermaroller after 10 uses or once a month if you are using it more frequently.

Results

I have only tried it out once so I cannot comment on results as of yet but my skin did look healthier the next day. I also found any skincare products absorbed into my skin almost immediately the following morning which was amazing. I will be sure to update you in future Skin Diaries and will also be including before/after photos there so keep your eye out for it.

In terms of pain I felt nothing, in fact it felt like a soothing facial massage. It did not feel like needles puncturing my skin at all and pinching your arm is more painful than dermarolling. After treatment my face felt itchy and looked a little pink.  For someone that hates needles I actually cannot wait for my next treatment!

Hopefully this review/guide was informative and helpful. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to comment below or contact me via Instagram DM and I will try to answer them as best as I can.


Where to purchase
I purchased mine via eBay - just search dermarollers. This was the most ideal and affordable option for me. You can also find them on banish, amazon, skin clinics and online.

Disclaimer: All opinions and information provided are based off my own individual research and experience. I am not an expert when it comes to skincare and please make sure to conduct your own extra research if you are interested in trying out dermarolling.